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Adventure motorcycling in Morocco
Season 7 : Return to Africa
2 March 2023Morocco: the land of the High Atlas Mountains and the hot Saharan desert. It's fair to say I was more than excited that my new African adventures were kicking off in Morocco. There is so much to see here, so much culture to experience, nature to discover and well.. dirt roads to ride! I already heard that they are very quickly laying tar all over Morocco. However I was still surprised to see some tiny roads which clearly were dirt roads not long ago, already covered in a layer of brand new tar. For the local people, these new tar roads will make life much easier. For an adventure rider with a love for dirt, you better visit Morocco while there is still dirt left to ride!
Going off-the-beaten track
On my journey through Morocco, I've decided that I'll stay away from some of the famous places, such as Marrakesh, Fez and Agadir. It's no secret that I generally don't like big cities but that's not all. The more I travel on a motorcycle, the more I realize what a privilege it is to travel this way. It allows you to visit real off-the-beaten track places and pass through areas that barely see any tourists at all.
In my experience, the locals are friendlier and more open to conversation in rural areas than in famous tourist traps where there are more touts than visitors. Often, you don't even have to get far from the cities to already have such experiences. Like Bhilal, it is only about 30 kilometers south of Fez but receives almost no visitors. Staying in a beautiful traditional Moroccan home, eating home cooked Moroccan food, and being invited into people’s cave houses for tea was an unforgettable experience. I doubt I would have experienced something like that in Fez.
When I went to Hassilabied, close to Merzouga, to see the famous sand dunes of Erg Chebbi, I realized that I had gotten on the tourist trail again. Every foreigner that I met had the same story. They had just come from Marrakesh, were now going on a camel safari into the dunes and then they would continue to the beach. It reminded me of the days when I was backpacking around the world in my mid-twenties. I followed the same backpacker trail as everyone else and ticked off many sights.
Meeting locals
Now that I've discovered motorcycle travel, I have become addicted to this way of discovery. For me, the highlight of the day is being offered water or tea by locals that are living remotely in the mountains or desert. Trying to have a small conversation and appreciating people’s hospitality. I prefer these small experiences over sitting on a camel for a photo-op any day.
Besides allowing me to get pretty much wherever I want, my motorcycle also makes it easy to make new friends. The motorcycle community, as you probably know, is friendly and the shared love for two wheels creates friendships. As I was riding into Hassilabied, a tiny village, I noticed a shop with a KTM 450 Rally Replica parked outside. This person must have ridden the Dakar, I realized. I happened to be looking for a mechanic as my left fork seal was leaking some oil and I figured that someone who has ridden the Dakar must know motorcycles.
As it turned out, the owner of that bike was Ali Oukherbouch. He successfully finished the Dakar rally two years ago and was also present at this year’s Dakar. Turns out that we are both friends with Mason Klein and we knew many of the same people and riders. What a small world! Being able to talk motorcycles with a professional rally racer in a tiny village in the Sahara was not something that I expected from my time in Morocco. He also made sure his mechanic fixed my fork seal so I could continue my way. Onwards!
Your reply
Hi Noraly. It's nice to here you are enjoying your new Adventures. You always seem to have your head screwed on properly as they say, and staying smart. I agree the outlying town's and Villages are more interesting. Enjoying your video's, stay safe.
Les moore
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Thanks, Les!
Noraly
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Season 7 has been fantastic so far. What an unbelievable place Morocco is and what lovely people too.
Dave Marriott
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I'm so happy to hear that you are enjoying Season 7:)
Noraly
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Very cool experiences, I'm enjoying your adventures off the beaten path. My mantra at 76 is "stay off the tour bus". I'd rather be one of the people the tourists are looking at, doing crazy stuff. I think my window of opportunity for doing Dakar is passed, but I'm planning to build a rally replica (or maybe more accurately, an aggressive adventure bike) from a KTM 500 EXC this summer. I like my little highly modified KTM 390 ADV, but it's heavy for its displacement, and sometimes a few more HP would be nice.
I also greatly enjoyed your academy courses and I'm putting what I learned into use. Unfortunately, I no longer have motorcycles in Maui where I spend the winter, but I'm applying your guidance to doing some videos on modifying a 3D printer to make it capable of printing higher temperature plastics, and I'll switch to motorcycle trips and modifications/maintenance work when I get back to the mainland.
Ride on--I'll be watching you.
PonoBill
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Good luck on building your adventure bike, sounds amazing!
Noraly
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i am loving series 7 i enjoyed most of 6 but not so much north America this is the real deal love it
pillian
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I am glad that you are loving Season 7! Thank you:)
Noraly
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I can't begin to tell you how much your adventures have meant to me. You have given me the courage to step out of my fear (at almost 71) and pursue my own adventures. Morocco is my favorite yet - the people are amazing!
Chrmy
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So glad that I have inspired you! Enjoy all your upcoming adventures:)
Noraly
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Yes..the backcountry and the Atlas mountains and all the villages along the way are very interesting.
But..always but..you skip the real challenge..the cities..so when your trip is done you don't know
anything really about Moroccan life..it's more or less the same as visiting only the suburbs of my
hometown Rotterdam..were nothing happens.
Anyway..you're safe and it's your choice..I'm looking forward to friday and your 300 km trip.
Take care..Noraly.
mellowjelly
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As a follow up..the coastal towns are worth visiting..especially El Jadida.Essaouira etc..
You will find peacefull people there and good fish fresh from the sea for peanuts.
Agadir you can forget..many tourists..but Marakesh is a must..you kan make some vids there.
And then you have the street of the Kasba's..it's magic there.
Anyway..this is just my suggestion..do with it as you want.
mellowjelly
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Hiya Norally.
How good it is to see you back on the road (dirt). We have all been looking forward to this trip and more! You always find such lovely people. I remember you in Iran and how well you were treated. Justshows, if it was left to the ordinary folk how much better our world would be. As to riding in cities, I can't think of anything worse. My travels on m/bike are not as extensive as yours, but I try and avoid great loads of people. having moved to the country (West Sussex UK) I have absolutely no wish to visit London or even the larger towns near me. I did do a long guided tour years ago to Thyland, Hong Kong and Singapore although I'm glad I did, it was not how I wanted it to be and escaped our guide as often as possible. You have real guts to get away, I really envy your nerve to dig out your bike from all kinds of difficult situations. Very few men would do these rides alone. Good luck to you. From UK>
Jim Payne
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Thanks, Jim!
Noraly
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What a great season this is! You don't realize the impact you have on my wife and I. We are constantly talking about you! It is always good.
I am a little concerned about all the sand in Alaska's chain. When you got stuck, there was a closeup on the video the chain and sprocket coated with sand. That sand wears chains. Hope you found a way to deal with this or you will be replacing a lot of chains!
Have fun!! We wish we were there.
Jimmy
Jimmy Rosen
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You are making me miss Morocco. I was last there in 2009, there was a lot more dirt back then.
The generosity of the Moroccan people is amazing. We spent over a year, living on the boat and exploring the Inland by motorcycle. Like you, we tried to miss the tourist towns whenever possible. On the Atlantic coast, we gave Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca and Agidar a miss, choosing Safi and Essaouira as base ports. Sadly, our friend, Sam, of Sam's restuarant is no more. He was a wonderful guy.
In Sale, the Iman of the Green Mosque became a friend. We spent many mornings sipping tea and talking, never a word about religion or politics, we talked music, history, ideas. He loved the Blues, when I left Morocco, I gave him all of my Blues CDs. His smile was ear to ear.
Since you had your 1st meal in Morocco, I have had to dig out the Tagine. Finding the fresh spices has proven to be difficult but well worth the effort.
Thank's for the excellent insights into the places you visit and peoples you meet.
Igeaux
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Wow, your adventures traveling by boat and motorcycle sound incredible!
Noraly
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