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Adventure riding in Mauritania

Season 7 : Return to Africa

1 April 2023

I've entered yet another country – Mauritania. It is located in West Africa, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west, Senegal to the southwest, Mali to the east, and Morocco to the north and northwest. This West African nation may not be as well-known as its neighbour Morocco, but it’s a fascinating country with endless opportunities for adventure riding.

While Mauritania may have similarities with Morocco, these two countries are vastly different. Mauritania is much less developed, with very few large towns. Donkey carts replace most cars and tents or huts often replace houses. But as an adventure rider you have the chance to ride through hundreds of kilometers of untouched desert with impressive mountain chains, monoliths and hidden oases with thousands of palm trees. 

Mauritania is huge. Its sandy terrain covers over one million square kilometers making it the 11th largest country in Africa. With its vast and diverse landscape, there is a huge range of different off-road terrains, from sandy deserts with tall dunes, to rugged mountain trails, green wadis and beaches. For me, this is the ultimate terrain for motorcycle explorers! 

Authentic experiences

What I also consider one of the best things about Mauritania is that it’s still relatively untouched by tourism. Unlike Morocco, which has become a popular destination for adventure riders in recent years, Mauritania offers a unique and authentic experience that’s hard to find elsewhere. Mauritanians are known for their hospitality and generosity towards visitors. If you pass a nomad tent without stopping by, the locals will be in fact very disappointed. It's almost an insult not to accept their hospitality. 

Sharing food and drinks is a typical custom here and one of the staple foods is couscous, served with meat, vegetables, or sauce. Communities in Mauritania have been herding camels for centuries for their milk, meat, and transportation. Camel milk is widely available and is considered a delicacy and believed to have medicinal properties. Both camel milk and camel meat are not for the faint hearted though! I suppose it's a matter of getting used to…

Mauritania has a unique blend of Arabic and African cultures that have been carefully preserved over the decades. The country is home to various ethnic groups such as the Arabs, Marabouts, Fulani, and Soninke. Arabic is the official language of Mauritania but French is also widely spoken. Several indigenous languages such as Wolof, Hassaniya Arabic, and Pulaar are spoken in several regions of the country too.

Riding challenges

For a solo motorcycle rider, Mauritania does come with a set of difficulties.  Finding fuel can be a huge challenge. Diesel is the most commonly used fuel, making it very difficult for riders who rely on petrol for their bikes. Add to that the huge distances between towns and most riders will have to bring extra fuel bags/containers with them. 

Besides bringing extra fuel, bringing lots of extra water is also critical here. The desert is hot and unforgiving and water is scarce. To be extra prepared before heading out to the desert is essential. Especially if you’re used to traveling in more developed nations, it can be challenging here. It’s important to bring essential supplies and research the route you plan to take. 

Security issues

On top of the dangers of the desert and the remoteness, as a developing nation located in West Africa, Mauritania has always been faced with various security challenges. In recent times, the country's security situation has worsened due to its proximity to Mali, a nation that has struggled with insurgent activities for years.

Mali's geographical proximity to Mauritania is a major concern for the nation's security. Mali has been dubbed one of the most dangerous countries in the world due to the presence of several armed groups that carry out violent attacks on both civilians and military targets. To curb the flow of weapons and the movement of insurgents across the borders, Mauritania has stepped up its security measures. With the support of the United Nations and other regional countries such as Senegal, Mauritania has deployed thousands of troops along its borders with Mali.

I've experienced first-hand some of Mauritania's safety measures. I passed about 30 gendarmerie check points all throughout the country and while staying in Atar, I witnessed two combat drones. At first I thought I heard an airplane and that surprised me since Atar is just a small isolated desert town. The following day, I heard it again and then I noticed a combat drone about the size of an airplane circling over town. I was told by the locals that they have a training centre where drone pilots are trained to fly remote combat drones. To see these drones fly over a small and peaceful town felt quite surreal, but that is simply the reality of having Mali as a neighbouring country, I suppose. 

Mauritania is a fascinating country full of diversity and adventure and incredible hospitality, but it does require some extra effort, planning and perseverance to enjoy the beauty of these desert landscapes!

 

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You vlogs are simply amazing. And reading these blogs here are super interesting. You are doing an amazing job.

_Spartan_  | 

Hey Nora. You deserve a break that desert was tough riding I enjoyed every minute of watching all of it. There are six seasons I can watch while you take a break. I got my itchy boots scarf the other day and I love it. I never seen anybody eating bread while they were riding their bike that was cool. I'm going to have to try that. Take it easy for a while take care of business and I'll see YOU and all the next videos. After while crocodile 🐊

David55  | 

It continues to be a pleasure and a privilege to share your adventures, which come alive with your photography and insights. A well earned rest and regathering with stunning scenery and riding behind you, and the challenges of border crossings ahead as you ride South. You reflect the best of what life is about with your spirit, positive outlook and determination to overcome obstacles and set-backs to achieve your goals - while managing to maintain your sense of humour and a smile along the way!
Travel far and travel safe…home is where you hang your helmet.
DuD

DuD  | 

I’m so glad you’re taking a break!
You have a great knack of getting across the shear physical effort of riding a bike where 99% of us would turn around . It’s going to be very interesting finding out how Alaska has ‘weathered the storm’ she’s been through. I hope the tlc you get recharges your batteries too.
The two of us have been mesmerised by this series, who’d have thought you could top the Americas adventure?
Wishing you an enjoyable break, you’ve certainly earned it,
Gordon

Gordon  | 

Hi Noraly, thanks for the heads up about taking a break. Preparation is paramount. Africa is wonderful to see. In addition to your previous trip around South Africa this journey is showing so much of a continent that most Westerners aren't aware of. Broadening our horizons! Exciting, educational and excellent in all aspects, your videos are award deserving documentaries of the world most people will never get to. THANKS. Take care, Les.

Les47  | 

Hey Nora.Epi.24 really awesome I have watched it four times already will watch it some more i see something different each time.Love the drone footage and the back ground music.Love the way you toke your account is cool.I ordered a itchy books scarf the other day.Glad to see you back on your own.I really love your videos. Can I call you Nora. For short ? I like the way you always find a way to do it. Be safe have fun and i well see YOU in the next video. Later gator 🐊.

David55  | 

Noraly, Also en francais.= Avez vous quel que chose pour manger par avendre? ,,
Is = Have you something(s) to eat for sale?,,


ps. OzGeographics(u-tube) has some interestin' commentary about Richat structure & presence(evidence?) of ancient presence of lakes,rivers perhaps HUGE tsunami's across Sahara! In his day, perhaps NOAH floated over Antideluvian Atlantis! Emmanuel Velokovsky's "World's in Collision" is a GREAT book, with fantastic recount of history from all over the globe, bout' time of flood,
& Comets, causation-effect. (Venus absent from night sky in ancient times. Yet can be seen without aid today!). 4,500 yrs. later,
we're still lookin' into it!! "Live to RIDE again!" Bless y'All NORALY, (Tour guide Ex-traordinarre!).
(Jean=,, John in english!). J.f.Seguine (Pardon ol' french, studied in school 1970-1974) mother was Quebecois,Canada!

JfSeguineIII  | 

Noraly, Est q'ilya d'essence ici?(is there any gas/petrol here?) or Avez vous d'essence ici?(Have you any gas here?).
( Francais,) & S'il vous plait(If you please,, or Please.). Comma t'allez vous?, & Ca va bien?, or jes' Ca Va?
Is Hows it going?, It's goin good? or It's going, (ok?). Is same but shorter modern version, more commonly used.,,
J'ai faim! is i'm hungry. Je voudrais manger! S'il vous plait.(i would like to eat, please). Bless you & be careful!
j.f.seguine Aus,TX.

JfSeguineIII  | 

Happy Easter Noraly! Hope you're well! In GOD's economy, we are all jes' the stained glass windows of GOD(JESUS) who is LIGHT!
some somewhat darker than other's , You, you are brighter than most, talk is cheap(inexpensive!)you live by example! This is HUGE! GOD is LOVE(kind'ness), you remind us of this by your nature! Thanx! for this, ++++!
ps. accidently logged comment to Morroco(not Mauritania), Also GRREEAAT roostertails, & Footage!
God bless "Professor Noraly" forever! Merci beaucoup! Salut! j.f.seguine Aus,TX. Happy trails always!

JfSeguineIII  | 

Eye of Africa was phenomenal. Certainly better for us for you to have a guide to get you to that local and know know exactly where to get the drone shots. Even though it’s not your preferred way to travel working with a local guide it really allows us to see your wonderful way of working with others and interacting with those you meet along the way. It’s great!!

secondcreekrider  | 
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