Adventure riding in Mauritania

I've entered yet another country – Mauritania. It is located in West Africa, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west, Senegal to the southwest, Mali to the east, and Morocco to the north and northwest. This West African nation may not be as well-known as its neighbour Morocco, but it’s a fascinating country with endless opportunities for adventure riding.

While Mauritania may have similarities with Morocco, these two countries are vastly different. Mauritania is much less developed, with very few large towns. Donkey carts replace most cars and tents or huts often replace houses. But as an adventure rider you have the chance to ride through hundreds of kilometers of untouched desert with impressive mountain chains, monoliths and hidden oases with thousands of palm trees. 

Mauritania is huge. Its sandy terrain covers over one million square kilometers making it the 11th largest country in Africa. With its vast and diverse landscape, there is a huge range of different off-road terrains, from sandy deserts with tall dunes, to rugged mountain trails, green wadis and beaches. For me, this is the ultimate terrain for motorcycle explorers! 

Authentic experiences

What I also consider one of the best things about Mauritania is that it’s still relatively untouched by tourism. Unlike Morocco, which has become a popular destination for adventure riders in recent years, Mauritania offers a unique and authentic experience that’s hard to find elsewhere. Mauritanians are known for their hospitality and generosity towards visitors. If you pass a nomad tent without stopping by, the locals will be in fact very disappointed. It's almost an insult not to accept their hospitality. 

Sharing food and drinks is a typical custom here and one of the staple foods is couscous, served with meat, vegetables, or sauce. Communities in Mauritania have been herding camels for centuries for their milk, meat, and transportation. Camel milk is widely available and is considered a delicacy and believed to have medicinal properties. Both camel milk and camel meat are not for the faint hearted though! I suppose it's a matter of getting used to…

Mauritania has a unique blend of Arabic and African cultures that have been carefully preserved over the decades. The country is home to various ethnic groups such as the Arabs, Marabouts, Fulani, and Soninke. Arabic is the official language of Mauritania but French is also widely spoken. Several indigenous languages such as Wolof, Hassaniya Arabic, and Pulaar are spoken in several regions of the country too.

Riding challenges

For a solo motorcycle rider, Mauritania does come with a set of difficulties.  Finding fuel can be a huge challenge. Diesel is the most commonly used fuel, making it very difficult for riders who rely on petrol for their bikes. Add to that the huge distances between towns and most riders will have to bring extra fuel bags/containers with them. 

Besides bringing extra fuel, bringing lots of extra water is also critical here. The desert is hot and unforgiving and water is scarce. To be extra prepared before heading out to the desert is essential. Especially if you’re used to traveling in more developed nations, it can be challenging here. It’s important to bring essential supplies and research the route you plan to take. 

Security issues

On top of the dangers of the desert and the remoteness, as a developing nation located in West Africa, Mauritania has always been faced with various security challenges. In recent times, the country's security situation has worsened due to its proximity to Mali, a nation that has struggled with insurgent activities for years.

Mali's geographical proximity to Mauritania is a major concern for the nation's security. Mali has been dubbed one of the most dangerous countries in the world due to the presence of several armed groups that carry out violent attacks on both civilians and military targets. To curb the flow of weapons and the movement of insurgents across the borders, Mauritania has stepped up its security measures. With the support of the United Nations and other regional countries such as Senegal, Mauritania has deployed thousands of troops along its borders with Mali.

I've experienced first-hand some of Mauritania's safety measures. I passed about 30 gendarmerie check points all throughout the country and while staying in Atar, I witnessed two combat drones. At first I thought I heard an airplane and that surprised me since Atar is just a small isolated desert town. The following day, I heard it again and then I noticed a combat drone about the size of an airplane circling over town. I was told by the locals that they have a training centre where drone pilots are trained to fly remote combat drones. To see these drones fly over a small and peaceful town felt quite surreal, but that is simply the reality of having Mali as a neighbouring country, I suppose. 

Mauritania is a fascinating country full of diversity and adventure and incredible hospitality, but it does require some extra effort, planning and perseverance to enjoy the beauty of these desert landscapes!