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crossing Darien Gap - most difficult border crossing ever
Season 6: Project Alaska
1 February 2022In order to reach Alaska on my motorcycle, and enter Central America, I had to cross the Darien Gap. The Darien Gap is a remote area between Colombia and Panama that consists of mountainous jungle, filled with poisonous snakes and treacherous swamps. This is the only interruption of the Panamerican highway, the world's longest motorable road, which links almost all of the Pacific coastal countries of the Americas.
For many centuries, the Darien Gap has attracted criminals, migrants, explorers, scientists, and other dubious characters. The area is dominated by narco-traffickers and anti-government guerrillas: the FARC (the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) still controls the south-to-north route that is used to move weapons and cocaine.
Biggest barrier for overlanders
This 70-kilometer strip of land is therefore the biggest barrier for overlanders traveling in between North- and South America.
There are stories of people who risked it all and crossed the Darien Gap on a motorcycle. Probably the most famous story is that of a team of 4 US army paratroopers. They crossed the jungle a few years back. But before they crossed it, they had prepared their journey for two years. They invested a lot of time in gaining the trust of the officials, border patrol agencies, guides, and fixers. Knowing their story, I decided that doing it this way on my own, would not become my story.
By air or by sea?
With the overlanding option out of the window, I was left with two other options to cross the Darien Gap, by air or by sea.
By now, I've got quite some experience with shipping my motorcycle by air. I have done it three times already. The first time was from Malaysia to Oman, something nobody had done before, according to the airport officials. The second time was from London to Buenos Aires, which is a well-known route. The third time I flew with my motorcycle from London to Quito in Ecuador, again a less common trajectory. I know from experience that shipping a motorcycle by airplane is not an easy task. It may look easy watching my videos, but it takes a lot of time and planning to pull it all off. And then I'm not even talking about the costs of such an operation. Needless to say, having my motorcycle shipped to Ecuador not too long ago, I did not want to go through that whole process again.
That left me with the only remaining option: crossing the Darien Gap over sea. For many years, this route has been a popular option in the overland motorcycle community. Several options existed in which large sailing ships would hoist motorcycles onboard and after a few days of sailing via the gorgeous San Blas islands, you would arrive in Panama. Easy, enjoyable, and more affordable than flying.
Finding my own boat to cross with
But then came the pandemic, and none of the larger sailing ships were running anymore. There was only one option left for me if I wanted to keep my motorcycle with me at all times. Organize my own crossing with a little boat that would take my bike and me all the way to Puerto Cartí in Panama.
Given the size of these smaller boats, there were a lot more risks and unknowns. I had to put a lot of (financial) trust in people that I didn't really know. On top of that, I wasn't crossing the gap in the best of times. From December until March the sea in this part of the world is rough, choppy, and dangerous. The longer I waited, the worse it would become, the locals that sail this route told me. With that in mind, I rode through Colombia faster than originally intended, so to make the crossing as soon, and therefore, as safe as I could. Hopefully.
It took a lot of time and effort to find locals that would use their boats for legal trips. Besides crossing the Darien Gap on foot, thousands of migrants are also crossing the Darien Gap by boat. These crossings are illegal and when caught, the captain of the boat would go straight to prison. But the high demand for boats by migrants drives up the price, and captains can earn up to 5000 dollars for one crossing, making it tempting for some to get into this risky and illegal business. And well, for me as a solo traveler trying to cross legally, that price was way out of my budget, and in that case, it would be even cheaper to fly. Finding locals that I could trust was a very important and crucial step in the whole expedition to cross the Darien Gap over sea. Luckily, I came into contact with Juan Carlos and his family and friends, who make an earnest living with fishing and are not interested in doing anything illegal.
Crossing Darien Gap
Even though it turned out to be 3 nerve-wracking days on sea, with countless stops to retie my bike with more and more ropes because of the rain, wind and choppy seas, I felt safe in the company of my new friends. I even felt safe with them, when another speedboat with three masked men came speeding towards us waving around a huge machine gun. When I finally reached Puerto Cartí in Panama, I realized this was by far the longest, most challenging, and riskiest border crossing I'd ever done in my entire life. And I didn't even cross through the jungle of the Darien Gap!
Your reply
Heya,
Glad to see that both you and Alaska are safely through / around the Darien Gap. Certainly some great arm chair viewing as apposed to what you had to deal with.
Looking forward to your on going adventure and a big thank you for sharing so much with us so far.
Regards
Shaun Glass
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Noraly, the videos (so far, as of writing) are engaging viewing, this account makes them more so. You are brave and your faith in the ferrymen was well founded, especially as to the way they protected you and beat of the thugs. Enjoy Panama!
CJS
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Stirring stuff! I was looking forward to seeing how you'd negotiate the infamous Darien Gap, and wow, it didn't disappoint! Thankfully you and Alaska arrived in central America safe and well, even though this armchair traveller was gripping the sides of his seat watching the crossing in that wee boat. Kudos to your companions too, they got you there, your faith and judgement proven. Good luck with the next stage in the journey, Noraly.
MacSver
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Very interesting stuff! I'm curious as to the cost of doing it your way. Is this an option for anyone? Or was it a 'one-off'? Thanks for all the great content. I'll do my "In the Tire Tracks of Itchy Boots" journey one day.
EZ-D
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Dear Noraly, this was a true adventure with cliffhangers at the end of each episode.... This weekend we could not wait for the Monday video to appear. Having seen that, we are very happy that you reached your destination safely. It is a miracle how you organize your day to day trips, video editing and the logistics of your trip. Finding the right people for the Darien gap crossing must have been an true challenge. Looking forward to the continuing story.
KeM
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I have sent you a bullet prove vest for your travels. Have just finished watching two guys take a motorcycle across the gap - there was no riding - just back breaking work trying winch that bike through the jungle. You have more determination that most of the people that I know. Good luck on your continued travels. ps - Just watched a fellow take and African Twin on your same route - he dropped the bike and had to have help in picking it up. You made a wish choice on picking a lighter bike.
autochrome
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Noraly - I tip my hat to you. I wondered as you were travelling through Columbia how you would conquer the Gap. It takes a lot of confidence in one's abilities to plan and pull off a difficult task in a difficult environment - you amaze. Season 6 has so far been very interesting and I will continue to follow your adventures as you move North. Good luck and please take care.
Drider
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so exciting to watch your boat trip from columbia to panama you are such a brave person
stay safe
ML
marklyman
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Noraly,
You are crazy - in the best way possible.
When I saw the size of the boat Alaska was being loaded on, I said (out loud), "No way!" But, you and Alaska made it intact and, with an amazing tale to tell!
What an inspiration you are to all of us watching!
THANK YOU!
BetteOfTheCleve
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Bravo Noraly!!! You are one amazing woman. Couldn’t hardly wait for each new episode of the gap crossing. You continue to inspire, entertain and amaze. Stay safe. We are all behind you waiting in anticipation for your next post on this remarkable journey
Grandma Mac
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