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15.000km ON THE ODO: Riding in Mexico the Itchy Boots way
Season 6: Project Alaska
1 June 2022Another milestone was reached, when I saw 15.000 kilometers being clocked on the odometer of Alaska. The past 15.000 kilometers I spend riding in The Netherlands, the UK, Ecuador, Colombia, Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala, Belize, and now Mexico.
Where am I? In Central or North America?
Crossing the border into Mexico felt like an important part of the journey, as it marks the end of my travels through Central America.
Although… it depends on who you ask. People from North America, tend to consider Mexico as part of Central America, whereas people from Central America usually consider Mexico as being part of North America. According to the definition of continents, Central America is not a continent, but the southernmost region of North America, between Mexico and South America. So that excludes Mexico.
But what about Latin America then? Latin America is not a continent, but a region defined by cultural instead of geographical elements such as history and language. Mexico is certainly part of Latin America, therefore bringing it close to the Central American countries. Looking at geopolitics and economics, Mexico is the largest trade partner of the United States, so the connection to North America is strong too.
What makes crossing the border into Mexico special
But wherever you want to put Mexico, under whatever definition, for me, it was a big moment when I crossed the border. Mexico will be the last Spanish-speaking country on this journey to Alaska, as well as the first of the 'big' countries that I will ride through. That means that distances between destinations are increasing massively, and my riding days are going to become much longer. Personally, I look forward to those long riding days. There is nothing like leaving early morning and spend the entire day riding on your motorcycle. If you are a rider yourself, you must know what I'm talking about!
How I plan to stay safe in Mexico
Another change that comes with riding through Mexico, is that I can't quite ride through this country like I've been riding through all the previous countries I've gone through. Even though large parts of Mexico are generally safe, there are certain areas where it's seriously dangerous. And, as a foreigner, it's almost impossible to know which area is fine, and which area is dangerous.
So for the first time in all of my travels, I wasn't in charge of my own route planning. Or well, I was still plotting my routes, but I had to make sure to check them with locals to see if I wouldn't ride through an area I wasn't supposed to.
I quite quickly realized that the biker community is very strong in Mexico, and once you know one rider, he can then ask his riding buddies in other areas for information and tips, who will then ask their buddies again for the next area. Tapping into the rider community like that was extremely valuable, and they gave me first-hand info and great advice on routes.
Another source of information that I use in practically every country, is the app iOverlander. Every traveler that travels around the world in their own vehicle, like a motorcycle or car, can add points of interest, hotels, restaurants, border crossing information to this app. But you can also give warnings for bad roads, or other dangerous situations. I generally consider this reliable information, and for Mexico this app also proved very helpful in giving me a heads-up about specific notorious roads.
That is how I plan my next 5.000km on the ODO. I am looking forward to riding through Mexico with her beautiful nature, incredible off-road riding, fascinating history and delicious food. I intend to explore it all!
Your reply
I am an American but lived full-time in Mexico, 2003-2015. My experience was that most Mexicans didn’t think too much about being from central or north America. In fact, they more often referred to us as the “Norte Americanos”. The topes (speed bumps) and the police/military checkpoints bring back memories. Thankfully, we never had a bad experience with them. We traveled about 125k km over 12 years and saw 30 of the 32 states by car. Be safe, enjoy the country! See you in the next episode! Alan
AlanBrown
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They normally love YouTube I’ve rode thousands of kilometres in Mexico I have a bike in San Cristobal actually it’s not as bad as everybody thinks I love the Sierra Madres mountains range and it sounds like you know the deal on Mexico it’s a wonderful place wonderful people the only time we ever had issues was in tourist places I actually just got my Mexican residency I love it so much down there have fun take a couple days off for yourself ...go to Oaxaca Huatuco it’s a smaller quieter place go for a swim. I’ve biked from Coast to Coast several times Watch that section between Chiapas and Oaxaca it’s a narrow windy section it’s quite tiring actually take care of my friend.
Harlyredhonda
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I should really copy check it should say ...hey Noraly
Harlyredhonda
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Joy and I look forward to each new video! We are with you all the way. We were somewhat concerned with the Hurricane that just passed over near you.
John Cordray
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For 11 years I have traveled by motorcycle to some of the states of the Mexican Republic, always traveling during the day without having any problems, but lately in some states crime has increased and it is not safe to drive there, Mexico is a great country with many places to visit.
Alejandro de la Torre Villahermosa Tabasco Mexico
legendario68
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Just be cool, have your papers ready and when you ride thru Queretaro you have a place to stay and do maintenance.
CarlosCR
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Hi Noraly! Thanks for not hating on my country. It can be shifty and scary at times, but as you say it is also beautiful and has so much to offer. You are the absolute real deal and that is why so many of us appreciate and respect you so much. I remember watching Long Way Up with Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman a few years back and to cross Mexico they bought an old school bus, loaded their bikes on it and rode it day and night, not stopping for anything but gas and bathroom breaks until they got to the US... that was quite honestly the silliest thing I've ever seen, especially after visiting equally (if not more) dangerous countries before this. You on the other hand are doing it the proper way, guard up? of course! as the smart woman that you are, but still making sure to visit and appreciate, so THANK YOU!
Hope you get to see the Aztec pyramids of the Sun and the Moon in Teotihuacan, they are impressive.
I don't live in Mexico anymore, so please have a couple of cochinita pibil tacos for me!
Stay safe and enjoy,
Cheers,
Mary Ann
MZ
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Sorry I have not ridden my motorcycle in Mexico but have ridden across the border in the deserts of Arizona.
Baldybaldwin
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Hi Noraly Love the show .We never made it to the Americas but in 1973 (yes we are old) we rode two 750cc around
southern Africa then over to India and back to Europe covering many tracks that you have ridden many happy memories. Keep up the good work Tom&Philomena.
T.D.B
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Noraly... It's great to see you enjoying your adventure. Just wondering, though, if you're actually going to reach Alaska this year since your pace seems to be working against you. There is so much to see (geographically) in the western mountain states and Canada, that if you tarry, the first snowfall will prevent you from reaching "The Last Frontier" this season. And you don't want to be biking there in the winter. I wintered there for two years and can attest to the brutal conditions. Are you restricted with visa times to accomplish your mission? Fingers crossed that this all gets sorted.
Bob S
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